The cryptic Shakespeare reference on the back of Sea Change cheese got me at “rich and strange.”(The Tempest: Act 1, Scene 2) True to the slogan “Dedicated to the Science and Art of Milk Metamorphosis,” The Mystic Cheese Company of Lebanon, Conn., brings a cheese that reflects the “sea change” of fine dairy.
Before I even tasted the 4-ounce disk of cow’s milk, I held it in my hand, assaying its weight. For such a small cheese, it felt surprisingly heavy; and with a slight squeeze, it came to life. This was a delicate cheese, but with a “rich and strange” personality.
Once I unwrapped it, I saw its similarities to Italian Robiola cheese—young fresh, sometimes lightly rinded beauties from Piedmont in northwestern Italy. Sea Change is a fat little milk-logged cheese with a yeasty, eggy aroma. Young and ready to play, it comes to the perfect texture in no time. This cheese not only has a traditional lactic tang, but it also lactates on its own.
It starts oozing milk before it comes anywhere near room temperature. The center remains firm—not curdy—but fluffy and fudgy, and towards the thin rind, there is a gap where liquid cheese can move about.
A small cheese that disappears as quickly as sea foam, Sea Change should be served to a few select friends, either on its own with bread or dried fruits, or on an intimate cheese plate.
Recommended wine: lively sparklers such as Italy’s Prosecco or Asti Spumante.
I bought Sea Change at Le District in Manhattan’s Battery Park.
Elizabeth Bland, The Cheese Mistress